Rather, Julia et Evelyn

Julia Child’s favorite cookbook was Evelyn Ébrard’s (penned under the name of Madame Evelyn Saint-Ange) Le Bonne Cuisine (1927). Since 2005, thanks to a translation by Chef Paul Aratow, the co-founder (with Alice Waters, food guru to the Obama family) of Chez Panisse in San Francisco, people like me can easily comb through the French cooking recipes that helped define a nation’s culinary identity.

After reading “Le Bonne Cuisine” a few years ago, I wondered why Julia hadn’t just worked with someone to translate Evelyn’s work from 1927. In the recent film, Julia’s husband gives her the book as a gift.

Julia mentioned Evelyn’s book frequently, calling it “one of the bibles she kept close at hand”; a book she openly adored for its authentic home-style approach. I would love to see Julia’s copy. She must have made some notes in there and her copy, being in French, probably contains some translation notes too.

So, before there was “Julie and Julia”, there was Julia et Evelyn. It’s nice to appreciate the continuity in the arts. Bon Appétit.